As the regimen of daily exertion released its grip upon us, we relaxed into extreme lethargy and this, along with muscular aches which surfaced, made it quite an effort even to mount the stone steps at the head of the harbour. On one occasion we strolled out to the break-water past the harbour, and on another we even managed to walk the 2km out to the rocky headland of Cap Béar. These outings were accomplished sauntering hand in hand, free from tight straps oppressing shoulders and problems of navigation.

  Apart from minor bickering over choice of food, conflict was absent and we were happy together, pottering around the shops like tourists or loitering in the leafy courtyard. It was an interlude of indulgent revelry, planning minimal exercise and maximal relaxation with feasting. Fresh fruity muesli, sumptuous salads and ravishing risottos featured here along with smoked salmon and even a dash of champagne!

  What could be said in conclusion to our whole experience? Well firstly, we started a bit late, but certainly achieved objectives of missing out excess heat and over-crowded refuges. However, a few more degrees warmth would have been welcome, and as the section up to Lescun is not so popular a start ten days earlier would have brought us to that village at the end of August; thats when the French holidays finish. This would then have got us past Port de l'Artigue before the snows closed it, and Pic Carlit might have been dry. What a drag though, to carry an ice-axe the whole way (even if it is just 340g) and never have to use it!

  On the whole, we thought it was a great trekking experience. The major negative feature which emerged was difficulty of maintaining a consistent and interesting diet, and the cyclic binge-ing which resulted. The following positive features emerged.

• Outdoor life: a regimen ruled by the sun; enjoying intimate encounters with nature.
• Self-containment: carrying our homes on our backs to fresh daily destinations.
• Surviving: dealing with immediate concerns which support function.
• Exercise and exertion: becoming 'lean and mean' and the well-being which results.
• Human encounters: gratitude for meaningful interaction with other people; wardens, strangers and friends alike.
• Freedom from expectations: spending less time in front of the mirror, or even at the sink!
• Lack of environmental pollution: absence of streetlamps, traffic, and especially noise.
• Simple food: Enjoying basic fayre and taking advantage of wild food.
• Mutual cooperation: doing things together and accomodating each other's strengths and weaknesses (Yeah well, very nearly almost!).
• Sufficient rest: lengthening autumn nights ensure ample sleep.

A brief summary of all that would devolve to the fundamentals of living, those basic items down at the bottom of Maslow's hierarchy: food, shelter, water, rest, and survival. Satisfaction through simplification!

The guns are silent now ... Tranquility on the blue Côte Vermeille

  The packing was all complete and it was time to leave our shaded palace; all that remained was to pay. But where was Paul? Nowhere to be found and the time was fast approaching 10:20am which just left us 10min to get to the station! To make things easier Karen hurried out to change a 50 Euro note so that we could give exact change. She returned just as Paul did, so final rites were then completed and we departed in a sweaty rush for the train; too late! The next one? The timetable said none till 11:30am, but the station master said there would be one soon at 10:39am. How bizarre, for our watches agreed with the round station clock which pointed to '10 to 10'! We stared from the clock, to each other and back to the officer, expecting him to 'crack' in face of the blatant evidence, but the moment of truth was ours to recognise. 'Messieurs, you must remember that the hour has just changed back!'

  One more transition obviously awaited us, to convert from the solar schedule, which is blissfully ignorant of human devising! Now as the train lurched its way northwards, we remarked how traversing the Pyrenees had given us unique experience in transitions; from summer to winter, from granite to limestone, from verdant pasture to arid upland, and from Atlantic to Mediterranean. Our train sped past pink flamingoes sifting the shallows of marine lakes to turn westwards at Narbonne. Now unfolding to the south, we viewed that distant and magnificent skyline of Pyrenean peaks and remembered how we journeyed there, how we walked, ate, slept, and stared at the night sky. From now on we could say 'We know the Pyrenees, just a little!'