Introduction


Dedication
What is the HRP?
  Haute Route Pyrenées or Haute Randonée Pyrénéenne translates literally as the High Route of the Pyrenees; it is sometimes referred to as the High Level Route (HLR). It traverses the range from Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean sea and in following paths close to the frontier, it bisects the watersheds which collect water to north and south. In fact, there is no reason why it could not be done from east to west but traditionally it starts in the west and the guidebooks describe it thus. It promotes the climbing of certain peaks as an essential part of the route, and a few other notable peaks which are not far off track. It does not necessitate actual climbing at any point, but a head for heights, good navigational sense and some scrambling ability are essential. Depending on the season, luck with the weather and your own route choice, familiarity with an ice axe may also be essential. The HRP was pioneered and defined by Georges Véron.

Who is Georges Véron?
  Born in the dept Sarthe (of France) in 1933, professor of biology and geology, Véron is a an eclectic sportsman who from the start practiced in competition of football, and athletics for 20 years.
  Since his first traverse of the Pyrenees on foot (1968) he dedicated himself above all to trekking at altitude, on foot but also by mountain bike.
  A member of the Club Alpin Francais, he carried the responsibility of the HRP for which more than 60,000 works have been published in four languages. The 12th French edition was released in 2003.
  A collaborator of the French Federation for Randonées Pyrénéenes (FFRP), he participated in the creation and documentation of the GR10 in the Basque region and also in the Pyrenées-Orientales.
  Living in the dept Hautes Pyrenées since 1978, he has contributed with the FFRP to an extensive emergence of all forms of trekking in the Pyrenees, and to the renewing of some itineraries towards Santiago de Compostela.
  Véron was himself furthermore recycled in 1984 to publish a dozen works destined for cycle-tourists and cycle fanatics; of which the cellebrated HRPV and the Raid Pyrénéenne are two such.

The idea and preparation
  During the year 2000 it was Karen who first voiced the idea of traversing the Pyrenees, but we had both made our city lives busy and it barely registered as a flippant remark; besides, my recreational pre-occupation of that epoch was climbing and I scorned the idea of slogging along trails for many days with a big pack. Quite apart from this, how and when could we make time to take such an extended holiday from routine life? The idea of the traverse never vanished completely and as we focused on re-settling in southern France, it began to fit into a slot of time just before we focused on serious property hunting.

  The next matter which arose was, 'Which route?' Karen had obviously been tempted by the HRP because she had owned the english guidebook for many years. I started to read sections of this, and asked her what she was thinking of, for the route proclaims itself suitable for those with mountaineering experience. She was then prompted to look into the details (since she had obviously never read the guide!) and quickly suggested that we might consider the GR10 instead! Less technical difficulty, greater distance, and greater ascent all spread over a longer duration. Too late! My attention had already been taken by the HRP, and for me the difficulties held a definite challenge and appeal. Perhaps Karen would have gained enough valuable experience with her Red Rope friends, and what she lacked could be made up in some training! That apart, Karen and I both maintain fitness with running.

 
How the training went.
  This article is presented substantially as it appeared in the Karabiner Mountain Club newsletter of August 2002. The note in respect of a stage involving 2600m ascent was incorrect (fortunately!); that is more clearly presented in the later edition guidebooks and stands at 1900m. Ironically, the passage through the boulder screes proved to be one of the most apt trials which befits the HRP, but we should have spent a few more hours there, just passing back and forth!

  So thats my perspective; how about Karen's? Her summary depicts the situation as we set out on Sept 5th.
Karen comments


Justifying the time
  Well before you set foot on Pyrenean terrain, I can tell you that the main obstacle to overcome is justifying the time. Financing the trip, you cannot call a stumbling-block, as Spain and France are so accessible, and the expense of trekking itself is likely to fall well short of work-a-day consumer habits. No, it is time-consuming allegiance to normality and necessity which frames an escape of this scale as a huge extravagence. Upkeep of career, income, mortgage payments, or even climbing performance, are all substantial hurdles to get past. Everyone is however agreed over the need for free time and escape, its just how much. Personally, I've always persued those longer breaks, the ones which so distance you from the dull return that you can really forget it might ever happen!

  This is where the HRP lends a hand with such a big decision, for it offers big returns on the investment required. You could go walk this trek in sections: 20, 10, or even 2 might sound more reasonable, halving that outlay of valuable leave. But you would more than halve the satisfaction, for there is something very special about completing a coast to coast route of such immense proportions, which criss-crosses an international frontier in such a notable mountain range. In Europe at least, there is nothing else to equal this. The HRP coincidentally presents itself in 42 stages (or thereabouts), during which you will have ample opportunity to contemplate the meaning of life. That makes for ample space to leave 'earth' as we know it, and the chance to see that those cherished allegiances are not really so precious after all. That will make for a new beginning!

And so I dream of going back to be.
It's when I'm weary of life's considerations,
And life is too much like a pathless wood
Where your face burns and tickles with the cobwebs
Broken across it, and one eye is weeping
From a twig's having lashed across it open.
I'd like to get away from earth awhile
And then come back to it and begin over.

from Birches
Robert Frost

Photography
  Ten rolls of film were taken and two returned; I am now regretful of thrift in this respect. They cannot all be postcard-worthy, for we were on the move, and had to take what was on offer or nought. If some appear a little misty or shady, then that is so because we were out and about in such conditions. Selection has been made in respect of content as well as quality, for the prime concern is to communicate the interest available. Having said this, I do feel obliged to offer apology for the inclusion of one picture in which feet were chopped: the Banyuls 'viewfinder' frame in stage 42.

  All photographs were taken during the trek and by us, excepting a handful in which we both feature. They were taken on a Pentax MX camera fitted with a 40mm 'pancake' lens and exposed onto Fujichrome slide film, from which digital images were subsequently scanned. All pictures have been retouched for colour caste and saturation and a few with differential exposure problems have been worked further; some have also been re-framed. One photograph was not taken on our camera; the departure shot at the head of stage 30, for which I must thank Karen's parents.

  In the majority of cases, larger pictures are presented with the stage in which they were taken; where this is not so, they are referenced with text and the relevant stage number (eg. S9, S20). If you find that certain photographs are too dark to discriminate detail, then your screen brightness may need adjustment.

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